
at the onsen
Field Notes
Onsen baths - one of the most intriguing, mysterious, and frightening features of Japan for a foreigner.
It can be incredibly stressful as an outsider. People we don't know. Nakedness we're not comfortable with. Rules and customs that we are completely unaware of.
Their comfort makes us that much more uncomfortable.
And yet -
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the settings are incredible, indoors or out
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rituals are fascinating
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and the water is amazing
The best way to visit is with Japanese friends - and I means friends. Not colleagues. A work onsen trip freaked me out. If you can't do it with really good friends, then a private onsen booking is the perfect compromise.
We were fortunate enough to find a few of those moments over the years and I treasure them:
steam rises, soft and slow
a sacred warmth our bodies know
till
in this moment, pure and clean
as we bathe, we’re serene
For whatever reason, it took 22 years for me to write this song in 2025. I was playing with a koto library and the music began to flow along with some of the lyrics. When it came out, it was easy... like soaking in an onsen.
Lyrics
VERSE 1:
steam rises, soft and slow
a sacred warmth our bodies know
her gaze serene, her spirit light
a quiet glow, soft but bright
VERSE 2:
the water dances, calm and clear
a moment's peace, a heart sincere
these wooden walls frame her quiet grace
while waters form a sacred place
the cedar air, the soothing stream
a fleeting world, a floating dream
she sits and glows with morning’s light
her presence turns the dark to bright
CHORUS:
AT THE ONSEN, where the world is still
a quiet strength, a gentle will
through the steam, life softly spins
AT THE ONSEN, peace settles in
VERSE 3:
my breath aligns with nature's flow
it’s a silent rhythm the forests know
a sip of sake, we share the taste
no moment here will go to waste
VERSE 4:
a single drop slides down her skin
the world dissolves, and dreams begin
through the mist, the world rewinds
to simpler truths we long to find
the air is soft, the heat ascends
a moment where the body mends
in this moment, pure and clean
as we bathe, we’re serene
CHORUS:
![]() Iwaso RyokanAn amazing ryokan with onsen baths in Western Japan (© glenn hughes) | ![]() Izu HantoI'm enjoying a public onsen that's famous from the Kawabata's "The Izu Dancer". It's spectacular under the waterfalls on the Izu Peninsula (© glenn hughes) | ![]() Urushima OnsenOceanside bath on Kii Penninsula(© glenn hughes) |
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![]() At the Onsen Alternate Cover"a sip of sake; we share the taste" (© glenn hughes) |
Details
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key: C
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tempo: 135
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time: 4/4
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year: 2025
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location(s): Izu, Japan; Urushima, Japan; other locations
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mood: relaxation
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theme: being one with water and nature
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instruments: koto acoustic 12-string, bass, drums
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recording status: released
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registered: ℗ 2025, glenn cash hughes
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